Florence in 10 Stops: A Walk Through the Open-Air Museum

A local-style itinerary through the city centre — where to park, what to see, and where to eat like a Florentine. Have you ever been to Florence? For years this city has been one of my favourite weekend escapes — the kind of place I pick at the last minute, on a long weekend when I don't quite know what to do and decide on a whim. The first time I came alone, I arrived by train to see a friend I'd met the summer before on holiday at a resort in Calabria. I was sixteen, and even that felt like travelling to the far side of the world. So when I stepped out in front of the Duomo, I felt like I could touch the sky with a finger — and it was love at first sight. Even now, coming back twelve years later, I feel that same rush. Every so often I still get to see my friend Irene, who swings by to say hello and points me toward her local spots — some of which I'm about to share with you. Florence is an open-air museum: just walk through the main squares and you step straight into the art. I promise you'll always find new hidden corners to discover, along with good places to stop for traditional dishes and to stay right in the historic centre.

📍 Stop 0: Getting there and where to park if you drive

Parking in Florence is no small feat — the historic centre, the area most travellers want, is a limited-traffic zone (ZTL). But we like a challenge, don't we?

Free parking (best if you're staying more than a day)

If you'd rather not spend a cent on parking, leave the car outside the centre and use public transport to move around. Single tickets from Autolinee Toscane cost €1.70 and are valid for 90 minutes from validation, on both buses and trams. Scandicci: along the tram line that runs from Scandicci to Firenze Santa Maria Novella station, there are several car parks. The largest is the COOP supermarket lot on Viale Nenni, and it's free. From here, two more free car parks sit near the Arcipressi tram stop — on Via Andrea da Pontedera and on Viale Talenti (beyond Via Galileo Chini), right behind the COOP. Galluzzo: coming off the A1 motorway exit, or the Firenze–Siena / Firenze–Impruneta dual carriageway, head toward Florence through the Galluzzo area. Near the main square — where you can catch bus 36 or 37 into Florence — there's a free car park. Firenze Impruneta (Parcheggio Certosa): a "semi-free" car park just past the Firenze–Impruneta exit of the A1 and the Firenze–Siena road. The historic centre is 20 minutes away by bus (line 37). The first 30 minutes are free; 30 min–1 hr: €0.50; 1–4 hrs: €2; 4–10 hrs: €5; 10–24 hrs: €7.

Paid street parking (handy for a day trip, thanks to how central they are)

Lungarno della Zecca Vecchia: you can park along the whole stretch from the Biblioteca Nazionale Centrale (Piazza dei Cavalleggeri) to the Torre della Zecca (Piazza Piave), less than a 10-minute walk from Santa Croce and the Uffizi area. The National Library marks the start of the ZTL. Along the ring boulevards (the four-to-six-lane viali that circle the centre) between Piazza Beccaria and the Lungarno della Zecca Vecchia: this zone has several parking options, and just before the Lungarno della Zecca Vecchia begins, you'll find a small lot by the Torre della Zecca. Lungarno del Tempio, Lungarno Cellini and Lungarno Ferrucci: once you cross Ponte di San Niccolò, on the far bank of the Arno, you'll find more parking — all an easy walk from the centre. We parked right on Lungarno Cellini, near the IP petrol station, and took the chance to stop for breakfast at Ditta Artigianale on Piazza Ferrucci.

Arriving by train?

The train is one of the most practical ways to reach the centre of Florence quickly. Santa Maria Novella station is a stone's throw from the historic centre and the Duomo, and it's connected to plenty of nearby towns by bus. The streets of the historic centre aren't smooth and even, so my advice is to bring a light trolley case or split the load with a backpack. To be safe, I always carry both — that way I can leave whatever I don't need at the hotel or B&B. Santa Maria Novella is also the terminus for the main high-speed trains (Italo and Frecciarossa) linking Florence to Italy's major cities. If you're booking last minute and want to save, look into a carnet — 10 journeys, so five round trips, valid for three months. I went for this on the Milan route with Italo. Alternatively, you can use the "Italia in Tour" promo: just €29 for three days or €49 for five, travelling only on regional and fast-regional trains. I've done it several times, because the standard fares were steep — and working on the train let me claw back the extra time the slower journey cost me. In just under a 10-minute walk from Santa Maria Novella you'll reach Piazza del Duomo — but before that, I'd stop to admire the old pharmacy of Santa Maria Novella.

📍 Stop 1: The oldest pharmacy in the world

Just 8 minutes from Santa Maria Novella station, you can step into the Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella — often described as the oldest pharmacy in the world 🌍. Here you immerse yourself in scents, fragrances and aromas. Its roots run deep: it began as a Dominican friars' convent (in 1221). The business proper first opened in 1612 as an apothecary (spezieria), and today the same original rooms still produce everything from cosmetics to fragrances and wellbeing products. The Grand Sales Room The current Grand Sales Room is the former Chapel of San Niccolò: the Gothic vault is decorated with frescoes depicting the four continents known at the time. The wooden furnishings echo a 14th-century style — like the long counter with its two bronze lamp-holders. Entry is free, 10:00–19:00 Monday to Saturday and 11:00–18:00 on Sunday. As always, check the hours before you go, in case of special openings or closures.

📍 Stop 2: Piazza del Duomo and the Brunelleschi Pass

Florence's calling card, and the most photographed square of them all: it's the emblem of the city, holding the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore and its companion buildings, the Giotto Bell Tower and the Baptistery of San Giovanni. SANTA MARIA DEL FIORE One of the most important architectural works of the period straddling Gothic and Renaissance, and one of the finest in Europe. Begun in 1296 by Arnolfo di Cambio and consecrated more than two hundred years later, it carries Brunelleschi's great dome, which dominates the square, the city and the entire plain — visible from points far across the region. Brunelleschi's Dome Often called the eighth wonder of the world, it's the largest masonry vault ever built. An internal climb brings you to the top, at the base of the lantern — the highest viewpoint over Florence. To climb it, you'll need the Brunelleschi Pass (more on that below). The neo-Gothic façade plays on three colours that echo across every building on the square. → Access to the cathedral itself is always free, no ticket or booking needed. Dress appropriately, as it's a place of worship. Dome access is by timed slot and on foot only (463 steps — total visit 45–60 minutes). GIOTTO'S BELL TOWER Beside the cathedral, designed by Giotto but completed by Andrea Pisano. At 84 metres, it lightens in form as it rises, thanks to its two- and three-light windows. The panels at the base depict "human activities" — a manifesto of medieval Florence and its guilds. Bell tower access is by timed slot and on foot only (414 steps — total visit about 45 minutes). BAPTISTERY OF SAN GIOVANNI BATTISTA A religious building in the same square, facing the cathedral, dedicated to the city's patron saint — for centuries the place where Florentines were baptised, and where poets and knights were invested. ("With another voice now, with another fleece / I shall return a poet, and at the font / of my baptism take the laurel crown," writes Dante in the Paradiso.) Access requires appropriate dress (total visit about 30 minutes). With the Brunelleschi Pass, over three days you can visit the dome, the bell tower, the baptistery, the museum and Santa Reparata. Adult ticket: €30 Reduced (ages 7–14): €12 Free (ages 0–6)

📍 Stop 3: The Porcellino Fountain

Past Piazza del Duomo, heading toward Piazza della Signoria, you can't skip the loggia of the Mercato Nuovo for a little superstition. Legend says rubbing the statue's snout brings luck. The full ritual: place a coin in the boar's mouth after rubbing its snout — if the coin falls and slips through the grate where the water drains, fortune is yours; if not, no luck. That's the tradition of the Porcellino fountain, one of Florence's most popular monuments — though the sculpture is in fact a wild boar, today a copy of the 1633 original commissioned by Cosimo II seven years later. Trippaio del Porcellino Before you even reach Piazza della Signoria, if you want the 100% Florentine experience, you can't miss the lampredotto sandwich. Lampredotto is the meat of the abomasum, one of the four chambers of a cow's stomach (so, part of what's normally discarded): a real treat for meat lovers, a humble dish of tradition with a very particular flavour that's increasingly winning over visitors too. The Trippaio del Porcellino has been a food truck near the fountain for 35 years now, and Orazio — the owner — carries on the family trade. Try it on its own, or with lampredotto, chard or spinach.

📍 Stop 4: Piazza della Signoria (Palazzo Vecchio, the Loggia and the Arnolfo Tower)

Florence's main square and the seat of the city's civic power. It sits in the heart of medieval Florence, south of the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore. Several buildings are worth a look here: PALAZZO VECCHIO The centrepiece, built between 1299 and 1314 as the seat of the guild representatives who governed the city. The tower dedicated to Arnolfo di Cambio stands out — more on that in a moment — along with the Neptune Fountain. The fountain, carved in white and pink marble with bronze elements, was both a grand monument to Medici power and a practical supply of good-quality water for this part of the city. You can no longer drink from the fountain, but just behind it you'll find a free water dispenser (see the next note). LOGGIA DELLA SIGNORIA Also called the Loggia dei Lanzi, after the Lanzichenecchi (mercenary soldiers) who camped here in 1527. A real architectural gem, blending Gothic elements such as the clustered pillars with classical ones like the wide round arches. Torre di Arnolfo (in Piazza della Signoria) Named after Arnolfo di Cambio, the tower a few steps from Piazza della Signoria is a fine way to take in a panorama that gathers up all of Florence amid the surrounding hills: 234 steps (no lift) and a sentry walk at the top that make every bit of effort worth it 😍 Its 95 metres rise above the Palazzo dei Priori, dating to 1298 and built over the houses of the Ghibellines, who had lost the city's clash with the Guelphs. From outside, you'll notice the battlements run along only half the building, marking the older part — together with the sentry walk from which it was defended. As you climb, you'll find a small cell: the Alberghetto, where Cosimo the Elder and Girolamo Savonarola were imprisoned. Full admission is €12.50, reduced €10. Under 18s go free. Except on Thursdays (9:00–14:00), it's open 9:00–17:00. Check the official site for special closures or openings. A free water stop? If you need some cool, drinkable, still or sparkling water — and free, right in the centre — head to the Neptune Fountain in Piazza della Signoria: in the wall of Palazzo Vecchio there's a fountain with two buttons at the bottom to choose your water type and fill your bottle. From experience, the water is very good — probably better than the bottled stuff sold nearby at a premium. And right opposite there's a marble bench to rest your legs. Not bad, right?

📍 Stop 5: The Uffizi Gallery

It's no exaggeration to say the Uffizi Gallery — packed with masterpieces and magnificent rooms — is one of the finest museums in the world. The Gallery occupies the first and second floors of a great historic building designed in the mid-16th century, with a sweeping view over the Arno. The collections of 14th-century painting include works by artists such as Giotto, Piero della Francesca, Botticelli, Leonardo, Caravaggio and Raphael — to name only a few. There are also masterpieces of German, Dutch and Flemish painting. No less important is the collection of ancient statues and busts held by the Medici family, which graces the Gallery's corridors alongside Roman sculptures and copies of now-lost Greek originals. How to visit the Gallery A visit is estimated at 3 hours — sometimes more, depending on your interests. Access is Tuesday to Sunday, 8:15–18:30 (last entry 17:30). As for prices: Full ticket: €25 at the box office (€29 online, including the €4 booking fee) Reduced (EU citizens aged 18–25): €2 Under 18s: free Afternoon ticket (entry from 16:00): from €16 My advice is to book ahead to skip the queue, or go on the first Sunday of the month, when entry is free. If you also want to see the Boboli Garden and Palazzo Pitti, buy the Passepartout 5 Days at €38, available online: it works as single entry to each of these three sites over five days.

📍 Stop 6: Schiacciate on Via dei Neri

If you're feeling a little peckish, halfway between Palazzo Vecchio and the Uffizi, head to Via dei Neri for the best schiacciate in the Florentine tradition. Tuscan schiacciata is an oven-baked flatbread, dressed with olive oil and salt. The classic Tuscan version brushes the dough with lard, giving it the name schiacciata unta. Filled with the area's cured meats, salami and cheeses, it becomes a quick meal that's well worth it. Besides L'Antico Vinaio, which always has an endless queue, I'd also try La Prosciutteria.

📍 Stop 7: Feeling like a model at the Gucci Garden

The Gucci Garden sits inside the historic Palazzo della Mercanzia in Florence and holds a one-of-a-kind set of spaces: a restaurant (osteria) bearing the name of celebrated chef Massimo Bottura, and an exhibition area with various installations. It's an unusual experience, but a genuinely fun one — you move through different settings, some natural, some more theatrical, evoking various places around the world. The space is dedicated to the famous Italian house — a Florence native since 1921 — which chose to donate half of the ticket proceeds to the city for restoring local artworks. It was inaugurated in 2018, and it's the second example in the city dedicated to a fashion house, after the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum (Piazza di Santa Trinità — temporarily closed).

📍 Stop 8: Ponte Vecchio

A magical, timeless symbol of Florence: until 1218 it was the only bridge crossing the Arno in the city, linking its two halves. The version you see today was built in 1345, after a flood destroyed the earlier one. It was lucky during the Second World War, when German troops destroyed every bridge in the city except this one. Above the bridge you can see part of the Vasari Corridor, built in 1565 by Giorgio Vasari, running over the goldsmiths' shops that still line the bridge today. It was designed for the Medici family, to let them move from Palazzo Vecchio to Palazzo Pitti without crossing the streets of Florence — staying comfortably under cover. I'd suggest taking it in from its best vantage point, right where the Hotel Lungarno stands. Or you can have lunch with that stunning view from Forneria Firenze, next to Signorvino, whose bright windows give you a really fine outlook. If you're visiting Florence, you simply have to walk across the bridge, or take in the view of the bridges right beside it (Ponte Santa Trinità to the right, or Ponte alle Grazie to the left). From here you can start the hunt for the buchette del vino (the little wine windows), or head toward Palazzo Pitti and into the Boboli Garden. As spring arrives, its beauty is hard to match (remember that with the same ticket, plus €2, you can also enter the Bardini Garden). And if you're after something more romantic, or an alternative way to round off your day in Florence, I have a few ideas for you.

📍 Stop 9: A panoramic view over the city

Would you rather a romantic panorama over the Arno and the city, maybe at sunset? Head to Piazzale Michelangelo (after crossing the Arno, follow the signs that lead you up, through staircases and gardens). It's the most famous viewpoint over the city, and in the last hours of daylight it fills with cheerful, easygoing life — helped along by the street performers who now and then entertain the visitors watching the lights ripple on the water. If you don't stop at the piazzale but keep walking, you'll reach the Abbey of San Miniato al Monte, which is less crowded and well worth a look inside too. "This is the gate of Heaven," reads the marble scroll that greets whoever arrives — Jacob's exclamation after dreaming of the famous ladder set on the earth, with angels ascending and descending upon it.

📍 Stop 10: Where to try traditional Florentine cooking

Mercato Centrale Heading back toward the station, a must-stop among the stalls of typical food and drink is the central market: a place where food is lived and prepared by artisans. Perfect for sharing, given its sheer size, with little tables to eat or have an aperitivo. It was one of the fruits of the Risanamento era, from the years when Florence was capital of Italy in the late 19th century. Thoroughly renovated today, inside you'll find a countless variety of dishes — not only Tuscan and Italian. Entry is free, 9:00–midnight, every day. Osterie and restaurants If instead you're after an osteria or restaurant where you can sit and savour, at your own pace, everything Florentine cuisine has to offer, here are a few more suggestions beyond the ones above: Osteria Nuvoli, Piazza dell'Olio (8:00–22:00, closed Sunday) If you want to feel like you're having lunch at grandma's, this is the place. Almost hidden, a small door opens onto a lovely surprise: the cantucci with vin santo are an absolute must. They don't take reservations, so you'll have to hope for a free spot. If you can't get in for lunch, even a good aperitivo — a glass of red and a warm crostino with wild-boar ragù or mushroom cream — makes its mark. Trattoria Zà Zà, Piazza del Mercato Centrale (11:00–23:00) One of the many places to try the fiorentina, the city's signature cut of meat, famous the world over — and more besides. If you'd prefer something else, the trattoria makes its own soft, flavourful fresh pasta, perfect with a smooth red Chianti. The choice is wide and the quality is high. Remember to book if you want to be sure of a table. Antico Ristoro di Cambi Recommended to me by local friends, as it's marked among Florence's historic, traditional establishments. I tried another one in the city with the same designation — good, but not at the same level for service and prices. I've been back twice within a few months and sent various friends, because the staff are warm, quick and attentive to every need. The portions are generous, so a first course can be split between two if you're not famished. The meat and ingredients are excellent. I'll go back, because it felt like home and gave me a real experience through the stories told by its frescoes and its host. I'd recommend calling to book a table.x